All baby birds should be fed for 12
hours daily (eg. 8 am to 8 pm).
Never feed birds tomatoes and potatoes (both are members of
the Nightshade family and can be extremely toxic to birds),
avocados, chocolate, or dairy products with the exception of
cottage cheese (high in protein, high in minerals,
negligible lactose) for softbills. Mynahs can also be given
hard cheeses (parmesan, Romano) in limited quantities.
Most formulas should NOT be microwaved, as it will kill the
probiotics in the mix. Made formula can be kept in the
fridge for up to four hours (BE SURE TO WARM BEFORE GIVING
TO A BABY) and if it isn't a hot day or house has
air-conditioning, up to two hours (Important: doves should
receive fresh formula each time they are fed).
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| The "belly" area (right in front of
the vent) of all the birds listed here can be felt to determine
whether or not more feed needs to be given. The area will
protrude a bit like a round paunch, but should not feel taut or
stretched. Sometimes babies will ask for more when they are
already full, Mejiros particularly, and if fed, may bring up
food and aspirate. All of these birds have a tracheal
(breathing) hole that is very noticeable when they gape; it is
behind the tongue on the lower mandible (lower beak). Do NOT try
to push the syringe down this hole, but rather put it behind the
hole. |
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Hatchling (naked and may be
blind) - seek assistance from a more experienced rehabber. These
guys can be tricky.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not flying yet) -
60-70% DRIED formula and 30-40% fruit mixed and then warm water
added to applesauce consistency. Do NOT use Kaytee Exact as this
formula is too high in iron. Pretty Bird is acceptable. Fruit
should be fresh mango, papaya, banana, or any combination of the
three, but applesauce or strained fruit baby food can be used if
necessary. Add three mealworms (preferably ones who've recently
shed their skins - they are white) and fingernail size pieces of
soft tofu or bits of boiled egg for additional protein
supplement. Protein is VERY important at this stage for proper
feather growth, but don't substitute egg and tofu for formula.
Pinfeather babies should be fed every half hour through a
twelve-hour period and feathered babies every 45 minutes to an
hour through the same period.
Fledgling (limited and strong flight) - Same mix as
above, but formula mix should be pudding consistency (add less
water). Four to five mealworms are okay for this age along with
tofu and egg. Two or three de-legged crickets can also be given.
As the baby gets older, mix the formula to a thick paste
consistency and start feeding off of a finger. This will help to
transitioning the bird to solid food. After about three or so
days of feeding the paste formula, bits of fruit or softened
softbill pellets can also be given. Soft fruit can be given at a
younger age, of course, but not to substitute for formula. Start
putting pieces of fruit in the bird's cage along with insects
and feed approximately every 1 1/2 hours. The bird can go up to
2 hours if you observe it feeding itself. Until it is actively
interested in food, however, do not let it go over 3 hours
without offering more food than what is has already in its cage.
When the bird is actively interested in food, transition over to
an adult diet.
Adult - prone to a condition called Hemochromatosis (iron
poisoning) be very sure diet is LOW in iron; absolutely NO dog
or cat food and Kaytee Mynah Pellets are also too high in iron.
If softbill pellets are to be given at all, do not exceed 30% of
the diet, as nearly all mixtures tend to be somewhat high in
iron. Hagen softbill crumble for mynahs is appropriate to feed.
Omnivorous with exception of red meat, raisins, and other high
iron foods. Mealworms in small quantities (no more than 10 or so
a day), crickets (de-legged to prevent them from hopping away),
soft tofu, and chopped, boiled egg all are very good sources of
protein. Mynahs to be readied for release should be fed food
they can find in the "wild" such as mango, papaya, banana,
cooked rice, bread pieces, and insects. Other suitable foods can
supplement the above, but the bird must be familiar with food
that is readily available.
Excellent website:
http://www.mynahbird.org. |
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Hatchling (naked and may be
blind) - seek assistance from a more experienced rehabber.
These guys can be difficult.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not flying
yet) - Vitamin C is an ESSENTIAL, a part of the bulbul's
diet; it will most likely die if fed a straight formula diet
or one with insufficient fruit. 60-70% DRIED formula and
30-40% fruit mixed and then warm water added to applesauce
consistency. Fruit should be fresh mango, papaya, banana, or
any combination of the three, but applesauce or strained
fruit baby food can be used if necessary. Add two to three
mealworms (preferably ones who've recently shed their skins
- they are white) and small pea size pieces of soft tofu or
bits of boiled egg for additional protein supplement.
Protein is VERY important at this stage for proper feather
growth, but don't substitute tofu and egg for formula.
Bulbuls at this age should have two feedings per day of
straight formula with a pinch of Tang added for Vitamin C.
Bulbuls are more susceptible to poor feather growth from
insufficient protein than mynahs are. Pinfeather babies
should be fed every half hour through a twelve-hour period
and feathered babies every 45 minutes to an hour through the
same period.
Fledgling (limited and strong flight) - same mix as
above, but formula mix should be pudding consistency (add
less water). Three mealworms are okay for this age along
with tofu and egg. One or two de-legged crickets can also be
given. As the baby gets older, mix the formula to a thick
paste consistency and start feeding off of a finger. This
will help to transition the bird to solid food. After about
three or so days of feeding the paste formula, bits of fruit
or softened softbill pellets can also be given. Soft fruit
can be given at a younger age, of course, but not to
substitute for formula. Start putting pieces of fruit in the
bird's cage along with insects and feed approximately every
1 1/2 hours. The bird can go up to 2 hours if you observe it
feeding itself. Until it is actively interested in food,
however, do not let it go over 3 hours without offering more
food than what it has already in its cage. Some bulbuls may
take an abnormally long time to wean, go very slowly and
don't wean the bird cold turkey. When the bird is actively
interested in food, transition over to an adult diet.
Adult - because these birds are frugivorous, they
must have a fairly constant supply of fruit in their diets.
Softbird pellets (8 in 1 makes a good pellet for softbills)
should constitute about 40% or less if they are given a
softbill insect crumble. Only four to five mealworms per day
should be given, as healthy bulbuls tend to be on the plump
side anyways. De-legged crickets can be given now and then;
some birds are more interested in them than others. Soft
tofu, and chopped, boiled egg are very good sources of
protein. Mango is the most important food that a bulbul can
learn to eat. Mango trees grow all over the island and
provide an excellent fruit source. Fruit should make up at
least 50% of the bulbul's diet and at least two different
types of fruit, most important are mango, papaya, and
banana, should be fed along with pellets, etc. Peeled,
chopped grapes, watermelon, and chopped up strawberries are
well-appreciated treats. Bulbuls to be readied for release
should be fed food they can find in the "wild" such as
mango, papaya, banana, cooked rice, bread pieces, and
insects.
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Hatchling (naked and may be
blind) - these are the easiest of "belly" birds to feed,
believe it or not, as they gape very easily at overhead
movement, chirps, and slight jostling of the "nest". They
also grow extremely fast and are out of this phase very
quickly (within two to four days depending on hatch date).
GREAT care must be taken to only feed the smallest possible
quantities and the babies MUST be fed every 10-15 minutes or
they will die. These babies are best to raise when they are
in a bunch.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not flying
yet) - 60% DRIED formula and 40% fruit mixed and then warm
water added to applesauce consistency. Fruit should be fresh
mango, papaya, banana, or any combination of the three, but
applesauce or strained fruit baby food can be used if
necessary. Add one to two mealworms (DEFINITELY ones who've
recently shed their skins - they are white) and bitty bits
of soft tofu or boiled egg for additional protein
supplement. Protein is important at this stage for proper
feather growth. Mejiros at this age should have one feeding
per day of straight formula with a pinch of Tang added for
sugar. Mejiros are less susceptible to poor feather growth
than bulbuls. Pinfeather and feathered babies should be fed
every 15 minutes through a twelve-hour period. Mejiro babies
will be out of this stage within two to three days max. Take
EXTREME caution at this point because one minute you will
feeding a bunch of non-flying babies and the next minute
they will be leaping out of the nest and, shortly after,
buzzing around like bumblebees at the speed of light.
Fledgling (no tail or some tail and flying
regardless) - same mix as above, but formula mix should be
pudding consistency (add less water). Two mealworms are okay
for this age along with tofu and egg. As the baby gets
older, mix the formula to a thick paste consistency and
start feeding off of a finger. This will help to transition
the bird to solid food. Also at this stage, carefully offer
nectar drop by drop from a syringe. Touch it against the tip
of the bird's beak and it should quickly learn to suck at
it. After about three or so days of feeding the paste
formula, tiny bits of fruit. Soft fruit can be given at a
younger age, of course, but not to substitute for formula.
Start putting pieces of fruit in the bird's cage along with
the insect crumble and feed approximately every half hour.
Until the bird is actively feeding from the fruit and/or
crumble, do not go longer than an hour without offering
food. If the bird doesn't want it, offer several drops of
nectar. Mejiros can literally run out of "gas" and die at
this age if they do not get enough sugar. Once the bird
takes nectar readily from a syringe, then a nectar bottle
can be put in the cage. Mejiros usually wean themselves when
their white-eye ring grows in. Watch carefully and
transition at the bird's pace to an adult diet.
Adult - This bird is a nectivore and should be
supplied with either soft fruit or nectar, preferably both,
at ALL times. Softbill insect crumble is very good, but some
birds may not eat it right away. Chopped, boiled egg and
tofu in small quantities along with one to two small
mealworms are also necessary. The nectar mixture is five
parts water, one part sugar and can be put out for three to
four days depending on the heat or when the ants get to it.
Do NOT offer the Mejiro a standard bird water dish, as they
have been known to drown. A bird tube with a tongue (can be
found in any pet store) is best. Nectar can be put in this
as well, but the bird may take a bath in it. A very small
Lix-it bottle made specifically for birds works very well
for nectar. Mango, papaya, banana, and orange (in slices
only) should be provided and peeled; chopped grape and
chopped strawberries can be added as well. Hibiscus and
honeysuckle blossoms can be offered, but not plumeria as it
is poisonous.
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Hatchling (naked and may be
blind) - Limited hand-feeding knowledge is available for
birds at this age, however, it's suspected they can be fed
the same way as any other finch type bird, very carefully
with a more experienced rehabber's help if necessary. One
suggested diet for these birds is Kaytee Exact with a little
papaya (80% Kaytee to 20% papaya) for all stages of hand
feeding. One rehabber reports that Nutri-Start fed to older
babies resulted in a failure to thrive. There seems to be
nutrients in both the Kaytee and papaya that this bird needs
to grow properly.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not flying yet
and won't really for a LONG time) - Feed VERY carefully
during all stages of hand feeding. Give small amounts at a
time (3-4 cc) and go right to left into the mouth as you are
facing the bird. This bird is tricky to feed because you
also have to get the syringe fairly deep down the throat,
almost shoving it, or the baby will hack and cough on
formula. Parents have been observed to literally SHOVE food
down their babies throats. 80% DRIED formula and 20% papaya
and then warm water added to applesauce consistency. Add two
to three mealworms (preferably ones who've recently shed
their skins - they are white) and pea size bits of soft tofu
or boiled egg for additional protein supplement. Protein is
important at this stage for proper feather growth.
Pinfeather babies should be fed every half hour to 45
minutes. Feathered babies should be fed every 45 minutes to
one and a half hours, as they get older. Nestlings take a
very long time to get serious about flying that you might
think something is wrong with the bird's wings. Just be
patient and they will eventually start flying. Cardinals
will want to wean before they want to fly due to
physiological changes with the beak. When you are feeding
every hour or so, start offering pieces of papaya, tofu,
cockatiel diet, and mealworms for the bird to pick at.
Fledgling/Adolescent (FINALLY flying) - look for
consistent flight and a fairly large baby. Feed the adult
diet.
Adult - these birds are not true finches and are
basically omnivorous. The crop is located down in the
"belly" area, but is not the same as the other birds in this
category. They've been observed to eat practically
everything. A good diet for adolescents (birds no longer
wanting or needing to be handfed) and adults is a high
quality cockatiel seed mix (Kaytee Fiesta is very good).
They will also do okay on wild birdseed, but develop better
plumage with the variety cockatiel diet has. Papaya and
banana can be given to supplement the diet and are enjoyed.
Four to five mealworms, tofu, and chopped, boiled egg can be
given in smaller quantities.
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Look for a thick and wide triangular
beak and the crop on the right side of the bird's neck.
Java Sparrow and
House Finch (Papaya Bird) - add about 10-15% papaya to dried
formula for several feedings a day and offer pieces to
fledglings and adults, they love it!
House Sparrow and
Northern Cardinal - they seem to enjoy tofu now and then and
also papaya offered occasionally.
Hatchling (naked and may be blind) - Feed straight
formula mixed with water to a little runnier consistency than
applesauce. Go in right to left as you're facing the chick and
time the release of formula to the bobbing of the bird's head.
Give only small amounts (2 cc) at a time until the crop is
noticeably full, but not bulging. At this age, bobbing will be
slight. The chick will need to be fed every half hour or so. Be
very careful and get a more experienced rehabber's help if
necessary.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not flying yet) -
feed formula mixed with water to the consistency of applesauce.
Feed the same way as directed above, but give a little more
formula (3 to 5 cc depending on age and species) at a time until
the crop is nearly bulging, but NOT stretched tight. Bobbing
will be more noticeable at this age. Feed every hour to hour and
a half, as the bird gets older. Add 3 to 4 mealworms and
chopped, boiled egg.
Fledgling (limited and strong flight) - feed a formula
mixed with water to the consistency of pudding. Feed the same
way and give just a LITTLE more formula per shot depending on
the species. Offer millet spray, 3 to 4 mealworms, and some
boiled egg along with water. When you see that the millet is
starting to look pecked at, offer a cup of seed. Feed formula
every one and a half to two hours. You can go to every three to
four hours when the bird shows an active interest in its food
and eventually the bird will not accept food from you any
longer.
Adult - The diet for the above birds is very similar with
some variations noted above. In general, use finch food for the
smaller birds and wild birdseed for the larger birds, millet
sprays, 4-5 mealworms, and 2-3 de-legged crickets. |
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Hatchling (naked and may be blind) - Silverbill babies in
this stage will have the bull and arrow markings in their mouths
that look exactly like the mouths of baby Java Sparrows except
that Silverbill babies are considerably larger. Once pinfeathers
start to come out, there are other physiological differences
that make it easy to tell which is which (Javas have paler
legs). It is important to get the advice of a rehabber who has
actually seen babies at this stage because silverbills MUST get
a certain enzyme that Javas don't need and if they don't get it,
they die. The hand feeding process is the same for the above
birds except mealworms aren't necessary, but either chicken
broth (from chicken noodle soup or regular broth) or strained
turkey or chicken baby food must be added to the dry formula at
about 20% before mixing in the water. These have the enzyme
necessary for the baby birds to live.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not yet flying) -
same for the other finch type birds, but that extra special
ingredient must be added. Mealworms aren't necessary.
Fledgling (limited and strong flight) - same for the
other finch type birds. It appears the enzyme may not be
necessary at this age, but better to be safe than sorry at least
while hand feeding.
Adult - same diet as the above finch type birds although
they are more strictly seed-eaters. |
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| These birds feed from their parent's
crops and the crop fills equally on both sides. |
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Hatchling (naked and may be
blind) - feed very small quantities every hour and a half to two
hours depending on species (larger species need to be fed less
often). Give enough to fill the crop so it looks like two
boobies on the chest, but not so much that the crop appears
stretched tight. Ask a more experienced rehabber if necessary.
Mix straight formula with water to a consistency a bit runnier
than applesauce. It is better to use a finer grained formula for
the wee Barred Dove babies. It is easier to tube feed and easier
for them, particularly, to digest.
Nestling (pinfeathers or feathers, but not yet flying) -
tube feed every two to three hours depending on species and
follow same instructions as above except formula can be made to
the consistency of applesauce. A switch to a coarser-grained
formula is okay at this point if desired, be sure to mix the two
together for several days so the baby doesn't experience
digestional shock.
Fledgling (limited and strong flight) - feed every three
to four hours depending on species and follow the same
instructions except the formula can be made to the consistency
of pudding. Offer millet sprays at this point and when the spray
looks pecked at, put in water and seed cups. Observe the bird
and when it starts pecking at seed, slowly cut back on hand
feeding. Some doves are happy to be handfed forever and others
want to having nothing more to do with you. A rule of thumb is
if the baby hasn't started to refuse, then slow down and stop
hand feeding when they are a) eating actively, b) nearly in
adult plumage, and c) nearly as big as adults. These birds are
more likely to refuse hand feeding at a normal rate if they are
kept with other doves.
Adult - they do best on seed made specifically for doves
but are okay on wild birdseed. Millet can be added if desired. |
(Adapted from material
provided by Merri Keeton)
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